Returning to Istanbul was such a delight.
I love this metropolis; it’s one among my favourites on the planet.
Really, Istanbul is a vacation spot like no different: a sprawling metropolis the place continents meet and cultures collide, all in opposition to a backdrop of towering minarets and pesky seagulls. From the mosques to the cathedrals, the palaces to the road carts, and the bazaars to the boutiques, contrasts are in every single place right here.
One minute you’re exploring an Byzantine cistern that’s been standing since 532 AD and the following, you’re driving the metro via Istanbul’s fashionable underground. At some point, you would possibly end up stopping to admire a centuries-old Ottoman fountain in Europe, then hop on a ferry to Asia to seek out daring avenue artwork in hipster neighbourhoods. You would possibly spend your morning sampling Turkish espresso in a centuries-old cafe, then by night, be sipping espresso martinis on a rooftop bar, watching the town mild up.
Apparently, I actually favored the contrasts in Istanbul.
Whether or not you’re right here for the historical past, the meals, the vibes, or the contrasts, I promise you’re going to seek out Istanbul completely pleasant. So pack your curiosity, carry a superb urge for food, and prepare to fall beneath this metropolis’s spell.
Right here’s the best way to spend three days in Istanbul.
Seven Fast Ideas for Your Journey
- I like to recommend staying in Sultanahmet for those who’re a first-time customer to Istanbul. It’s the place the vast majority of the vacationer sights are, and this itinerary is written as if that’s the place you’ll be staying. We stayed in Tin Suites Hotel, beloved it, and would advocate it. I’ve a full assessment of the property on the finish of this information.
- Purchase an IstanbulKart from the machines on the airport as quickly as you arrive. This transport card means that you can freely journey on the trains, trams, metros, ferries, and buses across the metropolis, so that you’ll be utilizing it a dozen occasions a day.
- Istanbul is house to many, many mosques, all of which would require you to cowl up with the intention to enter. For those who’re a girl, carry a headband with you everytime you depart the lodge and keep away from sporting garments that present your shoulders and knees. You possibly can borrow coverings on the mosques, however it’s a lot nicer to put on your individual garments!
- I used to be capable of pay by card for 90% of my purchases, however it’s nonetheless useful to have somewhat money, whether or not it’s for topping up your IstanbulKart or grabbing a snack from a avenue vendor.
- I attempted three completely different eSIM providers in Istanbul and located AloSIM to have one of the best protection and quickest speeds.
- Convey comfy strolling sneakers and put together for loads of steps: they don’t name Istanbul the Metropolis of Seven Hills for nothing!
- If any person drops a brush at your toes, don’t decide it up! I repeat: don’t decide up any brushes from the bottom! This is without doubt one of the largest scams in Istanbul, the place a shoe-shiner intentionally drops his brush as he’s strolling in entrance of you. Really feel like doing a superb deed and handing it again to him? He’ll be ceaselessly grateful and begin sprucing your sneakers in compensation — besides the compensation is definitely him demanding you give him cash afterwards. I noticed vacationers getting caught up on this rip-off a number of occasions a day!
With all of that out of the way in which, seize your self a steaming cup of tea and put together to be taught all about the best way to finest to spend three days in Istanbul.
Day One: Breakfasts, Bazaars, and Byzantine Wonders
Your first day in Istanbul goes to be all about diving headfirst into a few of the metropolis’s most well-known vacationer sights, with an ideal mix of viewpoints, markets, and historical wonders.
Head Out for My Favorite Turkish Breakfast within the Metropolis
If you understand only one truth about my travels in Turkey, it’s probably that I’m obsessive about Turkish breakfasts: I point out them in each article I write about this nation!
As you’ll be able to see from my photograph above, they at all times current such an attention-grabbing mixture of flavours, and it makes for such a enjoyable solution to begin the day. The lodge that I stayed on this time round in Istanbul truly provided a free breakfast, however I skipped it each day — and I’d advocate you do the identical — as a result of there are such a lot of higher choices on this metropolis.
Cafe Privato’s Turkish breakfast contained — deep breath — Turkish flatbread, seasonal jams and marmalades, butter, clotted buffalo milk cream, regional cheeses, olives and olive oil, hazelnut paste, wild black walnut jam, ajuka (a spicy purple pepper paste), smashed avocado, eggs, apricots, grilled halloumi, candy pancakes, cheese pancakes, and sausages.
Luckily, it’s supposed to be shared.
Together with your abdomen now full to the brim, it’s time to hit up our subsequent attraction, which is simply 4 minutes from the cafe.
Swing by the Galata Tower
For those who’re searching for a few of the finest views of Istanbul, you’ll wish to kick off your time within the metropolis by heading to the highest of the Galata Tower. This is without doubt one of the symbols of Istanbul, and might be discovered on magnets, postcards, and work in each memento store throughout the town. The origins of the tower date again to the fifth century, though its present iteration was inbuilt 1348, which nonetheless makes it one of many oldest watchtowers on the planet.
Lately, the Galata Tower is all concerning the views, providing an unbelievable 360-degree lookout over Istanbul. It’s arduous to beat the angle you get from up right here: the enduring mosques, the Ottoman palaces, the limitless sprawl of rooftops, glistening glass skyscrapers, and shimmering waterways. To make use of a journey writing cliche, it’s an actual mixture of outdated and new.
That mentioned, whereas the views are spectacular, it’s additionally fairly costly at €35 per individual. For those who’d relatively save your cash for a future exercise, you’ll be able to nonetheless benefit from the atmosphere from the bottom of the tower; as you’ll be able to see from my photograph, it’s nonetheless spectacular from floor stage. The encircling Galata neighbourhood is a beautiful space to stroll round, too, with slim streets filled with cafes and outlets.
Take the leisurely 10-minute stroll down the hill till you end up within the Karakoy neigbourhood, firstly of Galata Bridge.
Folks-Watch Alongside Galata Bridge
Galata bridge stretches over the Golden Horn, providing views of the Bosphorus and Outdated Metropolis which can be completely excellent for images (belief me, you’ll wish to snap quite a lot of).
As you stroll, you’ll see folks fishing off the perimeters, their strains dangling down into the water beneath. It’s a little bit of an area custom right here, and I at all times benefit from the air of calmness and persistence they create to an in any other case busy bridge.
You’ll go dozens of cafes and eating places beneath the bridge, too, the place you must completely not be opting to cease for a meal or drink. These eateries are uniformly low-quality and overpriced, and frequented solely by vacationers. The placement could be superb, however the expertise is something however.
While you attain the tip of Galata Bridge, you’ll end up within the Eminönü neighbourhood, and from right here, your subsequent cease is already seen.
Enter the New Mosque
Controversial opinion right here: I feel Istanbul’s New Mosque — Yeni Cami — is essentially the most spectacular mosque within the metropolis.
It’s true: I feel it’s much more lovely than the way more widespread Blue Mosque or Hagia Sophia.
I imply, simply take a look at these colors in my photograph! Yeni Cami has one of the vital vibrant ceilings I’ve seen, but it has not one of the crowds of the extra well-known monuments.
The mosque is positioned only a three minute stroll from the tip of Galata Bridge: take the pedestrian underpass beneath the busy most important street and also you’ll emerge straight in entrance of Yeni Cami. (It’s marked on Google Maps as New Mosque).
As this is a mosque, you’ll have to cowl up with the intention to go to. Meaning males might want to cowl their shoulders and knees (t-shirts are high-quality) and girls ought to cowl their legs, arms, chest, and hair, and leggings will not be allowed. If the temperatures are hovering and you may’t bear the considered exploring Istanbul in lengthy pants, you’ll be able to borrow scarves and sarongs on the entrance to make sure you’re respectfully lined up.
Inside, you’ll end up surrounded by vibrant tiles, delicate calligraphy, and hovering ceilings, all mixing collectively to present the area such an impressive really feel. It’s a kind of locations that has you in awe of the extent of element that went into its creation. Regardless of its dimension, there’s one thing so peaceable about this particular mosque and I at all times discover myself lingering right here longer than I anticipated, sitting on the carpet and gazing up at that lovely ceiling.
After you exit the New Mosque, you’re simply two minutes away from the Spice Bazaar, the place issues are going to get somewhat extra chaotic.
Peruse the Spice Bazaar
Strolling via this seventeenth century market — alternatively generally known as the Egyptian Market — is a full-on expertise. I like strolling previous the stalls right here, taking images of all the colorful pyramids of spices.
From the second you step inside, you’ll be greeted by this wave of candy, smoky, and spicy aromas, with teas, spices, herbs, fruits, nuts, pastries, and sweets overflowing out of each retailer. There’s a lot to see right here, and I at all times take pleasure in searching the loose-leaf teas, discovering distinctive flavours I’d by no means encountered earlier than.
Whereas the costs are usually greater than elsewhere, and it’s undoubtedly geared in the direction of vacationers, the expertise of searching and soaking out there’s power remains to be price it, even for those who’re simply window buying.
Lots of the shopkeepers provide free samples of Turkish delights and native teas, so undoubtedly strive a few of these as you’re passing by — they’ve such attention-grabbing flavours on provide. For those who do resolve you like every of the samples and wish to purchase some as a memento, make sure to haggle first! It is best to anticipate to pay 30-50% lower than the quoted worth.
And I’ll warn you now that this was only a mere warm-up for our subsequent exercise. As a result of for those who discovered the Spice Bazaar crowded, simply wait till you enter the Grand Bazaar.
Then Get Misplaced Contained in the Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is the definition of chaos and as quickly as you step inside, you would possibly end up questioning for those who ought to flip proper again round and depart. Don’t! It might be crowded, noisy, and complicated, however the Grand Bazaar is an Istanbul icon and there are many hidden gems to uncover.
This market is without doubt one of the largest and oldest on the planet, with its development relationship again to 1455. For hundreds of years, this huge community of lined alleyways has been a hub of commerce in Istanbul, and wandering via its bustling corridors appears like moving into the town’s historical past, one enthusiastic gross sales pitch at a time.
At present, the Grand Bazaar is house to over 4,000 outlets unfold throughout 61 streets with as many as 400,000 folks visiting in a single day. As you may think, it’s simple to get misplaced right here, however that’s all a part of the enjoyable.
As an alternative of making an attempt to stay to a strict route all through the bazaar, embrace the journey and observe no matter catches your eye. If the crowds begin feeling overwhelming, take a break at one of many quieter areas of the market or head to a rooftop café for a view of the bazaar’s terracotta tiles, stretching out in all instructions.
Strolling inside can really feel overwhelming at first, with the scent of spices within the air, the shimmer of gold in store home windows, and the sound of distributors calling out to passing clients.
All over the place you flip, there’s one thing to catch your eye: limitless stalls promoting vibrant ceramics, handmade rugs and carpets, leather-based luggage, ornate brass trays, and kaleidoscopic lanterns, plus complete sections devoted to Turkish sweets, teas, and spices.
Haggling is predicted right here, so don’t be afraid to barter; it’s all a part of Turkish tradition, and accepting the primary worth you’re quoted is nearly unparalleled! Most shopkeepers benefit from the back-and-forth and would possibly even give you tea when you chat. If unsure, provide half the quoted worth and take it from there; for those who’re uncertain for those who’re getting a superb deal, stroll away. If the seller allows you to depart, you’ve gone too low; in the event that they chase you down the alleyway, you’ve bargained like an area!
Admire the Ceiling of the Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque is a kind of Istanbul landmarks that absolutely lives as much as the hype. And in contrast to the Hagia Sophia — she mentioned pointedly — it’s utterly free to enter.
When you step inside, you’ll immediately be capable of inform why it has its identify. Nevertheless, I’ll say that it’s not fairly as blue as a few of the overly-edited images I’d seen on-line earlier than getting into.
The inside is big, and blanketed in 20,000 hand-painted, blue and turquoise tiles. That ceiling? You know the way it seems prefer it’s been painted? Not so! These are literally hundreds of tiles as a result of the whole ceiling is a mosaic. That blew my thoughts.
Don’t be stunned if you find yourself spending half an hour inside, simply absorbing that magical ambiance. Dave and I discovered a quiet part of the ground, away from the crowds, and sat cross-legged for ages, simply stating all the small particulars and admiring the structure.
Stroll Previous the Historic Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius
The Historic Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius is a kind of unbelievable relics that simply makes you pause and recognize the historical past it represents. Standing tall in Sultanahmet Sq., this 4,000-year-old stone monument is created from Aswan granite and was dropped at the town from Egypt again in 390 AD.
4 thousand years outdated.
Isn’t it wild to assume that this obelisk was already an historical artefact when it was first transported right here? That the obelisk was older in Theodosius’ time than he’s to us right this moment?!
The obelisk’s hieroglyphics are surprisingly well-preserved, as you’ll be able to see from my photograph, they usually inform the story of an a Egyptian pharaoh’s victory throughout a battle on the Euphrates.
The bottom of the Obelisk of Theodosius is simply as attention-grabbing because the monument itself, that includes carvings added by the Byzantines. For those who look intently, you’ll be capable of spot scenes depicting Theodosius watching the chariot races on the Hippodrome, plus a dramatic depiction of the monument being raised into place, proper the place you’re standing.
Take an Night Stroll By Arasta Bazaar
Earlier than heading off for for last exercise of the day, take half an hour to discover Arasta Bazaar, in Sultanahmet. This small, higher-end market has a very completely different vibe to the chaotic Grand Bazaar.
Right here, the tempo is way more relaxed. There are fewer crowds to content material with, means much less tat on the market, and the salespeople themselves are loads much less persistent. As an alternative, you’ll find a way to have a look via a spread of native crafts, textiles, jewelry, souvenirs, and carpets; that is Turkey in spite of everything!
Cease in on the beloved Jennifer’s Hamam for those who’re in want of a ethically-sourced, locally-made Turkish towel; Dave’s mum nonetheless talks concerning the softness of the one she purchased right here years in the past! I actually favored the handmade jewelry from Divan, and Amphora Handmade Tiles was promoting essentially the most lovely ceramics; I’d have completely purchased some if I’d nonetheless had room in my backpack!
End With an Night Go to to the Basilica Cistern
I completely adored the hour I spent roaming via Istanbul’s Basilica Cistern. What a completely mind-blowing place!
Initially constructed within the sixth century, this huge, underground reservoir as soon as equipped filtered water to the Nice Palace of Constantinople. And after I say huge, I imply it! That is the biggest surviving underground cistern on the planet. Constructed by 7,000 folks, it spans an immense 10,000 sq. metres in dimension and may maintain a staggering 80,000 cubic metres of water. Supporting its atmospheric ceiling are 336 marble columns, every standing 9 metres excessive.
Given its age, it’s unbelievable to assume how nicely this construction was constructed. The Basilica Cistern has managed to resist an astonishing 22 earthquakes over the centuries, a testomony to the engineering brilliance of the Byzantine period.
And I’ve a suggestion to make right here.
There are two completely different ticket choices for the Basilica Cistern.
For those who go to through the day, you’ll pay the equal €25 to enter. However for those who go to at evening, you’ll be charged €38. It looks like a no brainer to go through the day, doesn’t it? I imply, it’s underground; it’s not like the sunshine adjustments with the solar.
Nevertheless, having now skilled the cistern within the night, I’ve to say that it’s so a lot better visiting then.
There have been no tour teams.
There was no noise.
There have been no crowds.
It was simply me, Dave, and round 20 different folks unfold out contained in the cistern. It made for such a magical expertise to have that serenity whereas we had been there.
In fact, for those who don’t assume the extra worth feels like it will be price it, you’ll be able to go to through the day as an alternative — you’d simply have to get there earlier than it closes at 6:30 p.m. It then re-opens for nighttime visits at 7:30 p.m.
When you step contained in the dimly lit chamber, you’re immediately greeted by the sight of a whole bunch of columns, completely spaced above the pool of water beneath. A raised walkway winds its means via area, permitting you to stand up shut and private with the towering columns, occasional drops of water falling in your head. It was such a surreal expertise!
One of many highlights for me was seeing the well-known Medusa sculptures: two mysterious heads, one upside-down and the opposite sideways, set on the base of two columns. They add an eerie, otherworldly vibe to the expertise, and I needed to share a photograph so you’ll be able to see how unsettling they’re! What’s even stranger is the truth that these heads had been underwater for hundreds of years, with few folks even understanding they had been there.
The one factor I didn’t like concerning the cistern was that they’ve crammed it with all of those fashionable artwork sculptures, and I felt prefer it took away from the historic ambiance of the place. I spent most of my time making an attempt to angle my images to chop the artwork items out of them!
Day Two in Istanbul: Colors, Crowds, and Cruises
On your second day in Istanbul, we’re going to be diving into two of my favorite neighbourhoods: Balat and Fener. These historic districts are a mixed UNESCO World Heritage Website, full of attraction, color, and tradition — however particularly color.
We’ll begin the day with one other incredible Turkish breakfast, earlier than strolling previous vintage shops and galleries, admiring avenue artwork and the well-known rainbow-coloured homes. For lunch, we’ll be tasting one among Istanbul’s most iconic avenue eats, then wrapping all of it up by setting sail on a scenic cruise alongside the Bosphorus.
Let’s get into extra particulars.
Go for Breakfast in Balat
The neighbourhood of Balat is definitely accessible from Sultanahmet and elsewhere; merely bounce on the T1 tram to Eminönü after which take the T5 tram to Balat. It takes roughly half an hour to get there from Sultanahmet.
As soon as your toes are on the bottom, head straight to Botein Balat for one more one among my favorite Turkish breakfasts. Up on the restaurant’s cosy roof terrace, you’ll have glorious views over the brightly-coloured streets; it’s numerous enjoyable to take a seat and watch this eclectic neighbourhood start to get up.
I personally advocate choosing the menemen plate, and particularly for those who haven’t had menemen earlier than: it’s one among my favorite Turkish dishes!
So, menemen is a wealthy and flavourful breakfast dish right here, made with softly scrambled eggs, juicy tomatoes, and sauteed peppers, all simmered along with fragrant spices. Served piping sizzling, it’s finest loved with recent, crusty bread — excellent for scooping up each scrumptious chew. For those who’re considering it sounds much like a shakshuka, you’d be right! The principle distinction is that the eggs are scrambled in a menemen however left poached in a shakshuka.
At Botein Balat, the menemen plate is accompanied by tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheeses, jams, spreads, and a beneficiant basket of recent bread.
Wander the Vibrant Streets of Balat
Now that I’m a part-time digital nomad with a house base from which to journey from, I can’t appear to fill my backpack with sufficient mementos. I’ll be sincere with you, although, and share that a lot of the touristy areas of Istanbul are flooded with mass-produced magnets and trinkets.
That’s a part of the rationale why I beloved Balat, then, as this funky neighbourhood is full to the brim with enjoyable, one-of-a-kind gadgets.
Balart is run by a girl who has devoted her life to perfecting the artwork of miniature ceramic homes, painted in the identical vibrant colors as these discovered within the neighbourhood! Sevda Gazozcusu Balat sells sodas first created within the Ottoman period; I beloved my lime and bergamot one! Magic Lantern is without doubt one of the finest vintage shops I’ve discovered within the metropolis, full of something from classic typewriters to outdated medication jars to retro Turkish toys, posters, prints, globes and stitching machines.
The neighbourhood of Balat is one by which to take your time, stopping for a espresso (we beloved our third-wave brew from the aesthetic Cumbali Kahve), snapping images of the road artwork and buildings, and stocking up on souvenirs.
Head to Merdivenli Yks. to Keep away from the Influencers
As you’re most likely conscious, when the homes are vibrant, the influencers observe. Nevertheless, essentially the most picturesque avenue in Balat remains to be comparatively undiscovered, making it an important spot for avenue images.
Merdivenli Yks. is an actual magnificence, with pastel-coloured homes lining the steep cobbled avenue. It was one of many quieter corners of Balat throughout my go to, probably as a result of the hassle required to climb the hill deters lots of the vacationers.
Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church is Tremendous Spectacular
Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church — also referred to as the Bulgarian Iron Church — is legendary for being world’s solely surviving cast-iron church. Sure, this church is made completely out of iron!
The story behind its development is so fascinating: again within the nineteenth century it was shipped piece by piece alongside the Danube and throughout the Black Sea from Vienna to Istanbul. Over 100 barges had been used to move over 500 tons of iron slabs throughout Europe!
When you’re contained in the church, keep in mind to take a peek on the ceilings and inside partitions. You’ll find a way make out small patches of rust for those who look arduous sufficient, though latest restoration works have lined lots of them up.
You possibly can’t stroll round an excessive amount of on the bottom flooring, however that’s okay, as a result of the views are much better from above. Search for the hidden staircase, then head on as much as the balcony. From there, you’ll be capable of totally take within the golden iconostasis, in addition to the small print on the work, chandeliers, and iron framework.
Outdoors, don’t overlook to spend a while testing the church’s intricate facade, into which ornamental crosses and floral designs have been solid straight into the iron partitions.
Put together Your self for Crowds as You Enter Fener
I used to be stunned by how rapidly the ambiance modified after only a five-minute stroll into Fener. Whereas Balat had felt laidback and offbeat, Fener had a distinctly livelier vibe. A totally-discovered-by-tourists vibe.
That mentioned, don’t let the crowds deter you! I truly discovered Fener was much more lovely and engaging than Balat. Plan to spend an hour or two on this a part of the town, wandering previous vibrant homes, stopping by quirky cafes, and tackling that steep hill that takes you as much as a picturesque viewpoint.
Some recommendations for the best way to spend your time:
Cease for a Drink at Aşk Gazozcusu
One in all my highlights from Fener was pausing for a drink on the native gazoz vendor: Aşk Gazozcusu.
Gazoz is a conventional Turkish soda that originates from the Ottoman Empire. At one level, each metropolis in Turkey produced its personal hyper-local model of gazoz, utilizing mineral water from its land; the flavour various on account of every area’s distinctive soil composition.
The recognition of gazoz finally declined, and particularly when Coca-Cola launched its mushy drinks to the nation’s lots, however I used to be delighted to be taught that it’s now experiencing a resurgence. There’s a gazoz retailer in Balat that I discussed above (Sevda Gazozcusu), however I believed Aşk Gazozcusu, in Fener, was even higher. If unsure: strive a gazoz at each!
What I beloved about Aşk Gazozcusu was each the attractive shows of vibrant bottles and the number of flavours. As gazoz-drinking has entered the trendy period, increasingly more attention-grabbing substances are being added to the sodas, and it’s made for some actually uncommon concoctions.
Browse the cabinets and also you’ll come throughout flavours like chocolate, lavender, coconut, tamarind, espresso, jasmine, and — uh — mastic gum. Don’t fear — they’ve tons of less-abnormal flavours, too! Dave and I will need to have spent 10 minutes simply narrowing down the choices. Ultimately, I went for mango-pineapple whereas Dave opted for the watermelon-lemon.
Hunt for Antiques at Göç Antik
I spent a superb quarter-hour rifling via the treasures at Göç Antik, and actually, I might have stayed longer.
As with every vintage retailer, you by no means fairly know what you’re going to seek out, and this place isn’t any exception. There’s a medley of surprises up for grabs: pots and pans, candles and oil lamps, quirky trinkets, classic devices, and an virtually suspicious variety of gramophones. One in all them is normally spinning retro tunes all through the day, including to the shop’s old-school vibe.
The proprietor is extremely welcoming, full of data about every bit within the store, and at all times providing guests a cup of tea or espresso. If one thing catches your eye, don’t be shy: strike up a chat, and also you would possibly simply depart with an important story (or an sudden buy).
Stroll Previous Fener Greek Excessive Faculty
Proceed making your means up the steep hill from Göç Antik till you get to a Hogwarts-esque red-brick constructing. Luckily, it takes lower than a minute of climbing to get there.
The Fener Greek Excessive Faculty, or because it’s extra dramatically identified, the Pink Fort of Istanbul, is a kind of buildings that makes you cease in your tracks and go, wait… what’s that?! Sitting excessive on a hill within the Fener district, this towering red-brick construction seems prefer it could possibly be a palace, a fortress, or perhaps even the setting for a gothic novel. However no, it’s truly a college. A really fancy one, at that.
Constructed within the nineteenth century, the Fener Greek Orthodox School was as soon as one of the vital prestigious faculties within the metropolis, educating the Greek Orthodox elite of the Ottoman Empire. Lately, the varsity nonetheless operates, though with a a lot smaller scholar physique. You possibly can’t truly go inside (until you’ve someway enrolled your self in a Greek highschool), however actually, simply seeing it from the skin is definitely worth the journey.
So, when you can solely admire it from its gates, the Fener Greek Faculty remains to be a kind of little-known gems of Istanbul that’s nicely price searching for out. It’s grand, it’s mysterious, and it’s somewhat sudden — precisely the form of place I like stumbling throughout in a metropolis as layered as this one.
Loop Again Round Alongside Kiremit Cd.
Take a six minute stroll behind the Greek faculty and also you’ll end up descending alongside Kiremit Cd.
You’ll most likely hear the hum of influencers within the wild earlier than you see them. There you’ll be, strolling down the road, after which, bam: a dozen Instagrammers clogging the trail. Sure, these vibrant homes in Fener are essentially the most photographed spot within the neighbourhood, however who can blame them? These houses are greater than somewhat lovely.
In fact, they’re additionally folks’s houses — similar to each vibrant home on this a part of Istanbul — so it’s price holding that in thoughts. Be quiet, be respectful, and don’t be that vacationer. For those who’re hoping for a shot with out anybody else in the way in which, plan to linger for 10 minutes and time it between waves of tourists.
Fortunately, the crowds do skinny out every so often, so for those who’re affected person, you’ll be capable of get your shot.
End Your Morning on the Venerable Patriarchal Church of Saint George
Istanbul’s St George Cathedral is house to a formidable historical past.
Relationship again to the sixteenth century, its modest exterior — a stark distinction to the town’s grand mosques — hides gleaming treasures of deep cultural and non secular significance within the Jap Orthodox world. The truth is, it’s one of the vital vital Orthodox constructions on the planet; on par with St. Peter’s Basilica within the Vatican for Datholics.
Essentially the most putting characteristic of the inside is the golden iconostasis, which you’ll be able to see in my photograph above. There may be additionally the Column of Christ’s Flagellation; supposedly a part of the publish to which Jesus was tied earlier than his crucifixion. As well as, the cathedral homes eleventh century mosaics, thrones inlaid with ivory and pearl, varied icons and relics, plus an giant queue outdoors.
Two issues to notice: you’ll have to go via safety to achieve entry to the cathedral, and when you do, you’ll discover the constructing has a very dim ambiance. This will make it tough to take good images inside.
After you’ve explored the church, hop on the T5 tram from Fener to to Küçükpazar, simply two stops down the road.
It’s Time for Balık Ekmek!
Throughout my very first go to to Istanbul, again in 2012, one among my journey highlights was snacking on balık ekmek.
These recent, fried fish sandwiches had been out there from dozens of eating places beneath Galata Bridge — and the boats moored up alongside it — and had been probably the greatest low cost eats within the metropolis. For the equal of a few euros, you possibly can have your self a filling lunchtime meal and a historic expertise besides; balık ekmek sandwiches have been bought right here because the 1800s.
Their presence in Istanbul has wavered over the previous few a long time, as authorities have repeatedly tried to close down these historic eateries. Each few years, I come throughout an article asserting their elimination — solely to later be taught they’ve been allowed again, then banned once more, making a time-honoured conflict between custom and regulation.
Whereas my favorite balık ekmek providing from that first go to to Istanbul has lengthy since closed down, I’m delighted to share that I discovered a alternative that’s perhaps even higher.
After you disembark from the tram in Küçükpazar, set your sights on Balıkçı Hakkı. This little fishing boat has a grill affixed to its deck, the place mackerel is barbecued all day lengthy. There’s seating each contained in the boat and out on the deck, and one among my favorite moments was sitting on the bow, searching throughout the skyline, and devouring a wonderful €4 fish sandwich.
You’ve acquired two choices to select from at Balıkçı Hakkı, so that you don’t have to go for the balık ekmek; in addition they serve balik dürüm. Each sandwiches have the identical substances — grilled fish and salad — however the ekmek is available in a crusty bread roll, whereas the dürüm is served in a wrap. If there are two of you, strive one among every! In any other case, I’d advocate the ekmek, because it’s the extra conventional alternative.
There’s loads of lemon and salt on the tables to sprinkle on high of your fish, and there’s additionally…
Nicely.
There’s one additional delicacy that you possibly can additionally strive when you’re there.
Pickled, fermented turnip juice — şalgam suyu — is a Turkish drink that’s historically consumed alongside fish, and I do know that simply the sound of it’s most likely sufficient to place you off, however I beloved it. (Full disclaimer: I like something pickled!) For those who’re feeling daring, I like to recommend giving it a strive.
Maintain your eye on the time as you eat, since you’ll wish to make sure you’ve completed earlier than 2 p.m. — subsequent, we’ll be heading out on the water to see that skyline from up-close.
Head Out On the Bosphorus
I used to be stunned to find simply how cheap it’s to take a cruise on the Bosphorus; it’d simply be probably the greatest offers in all of Istanbul.
I went with Land & Sea Tours, which prices €7.50 for a two-hour cruise and €12 for a three-hour model; drink and commentary included! We opted for the three-hour cruise since we needed to see as a lot of the town as attainable from the water. Whereas the two-hour model takes you up and down the Bosphorus Strait, the three-hour tour additionally contains the Golden Horn, the place the Bosphorus meets the Sea of Marmara.
An enormous profit to picking the three-hour tour was attending to snag one of the best seats on the boat. After crusing as much as the Golden Horn, we returned to port to gather the passengers who could be becoming a member of us for the two-hour cruise. Most of those folks ended up caught in the midst of the deck, lacking out on one of the best waterfront views!
You possibly can see the scenes from my cruise beneath. The primary photograph was through the Golden Horn leg, the place we had a lot of the boat to ourselves and will declare one of the best seats (on the entrance, on the left, beneath the cover for shade). Then got here the chaos when everybody else boarded for the Bosphorus part. Think about ending up on a kind of centre-deck chairs — how disappointing!
It wasn’t till I took this cruise that I really grasped simply how huge the town of Istanbul is. I knew it was monumental, after all, however crusing alongside the Bosphorus for 3 hours gave me a perspective on its dimension that I hadn’t skilled earlier than.
Alongside the way in which, you’ll be capable of see tons of the town’s landmarks, most of which you received’t have time to see when you’re on the town. A few of my private highlights had been seeing Dolmabahçe Palace, Çırağan Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Rumeli Fortress, Selimiye Barracks, Mecidiye Mosque, and Maiden’s Tower.
Vist the Hagia Sophia Simply Earlier than Sundown
Now.
The Hagia Sophia is a little bit of a controversial one.
This world-famous constructing has worn many hats all through its lengthy and storied historical past. It first opened as a Christian cathedral in 537 AD — the biggest on the planet on the time and comparable in significance to to the Vatican — earlier than being remodeled right into a mosque practically a thousand years later, after the autumn of Constantinople. Quick ahead to the twentieth century, and the Hagia Sophia had been changed into a museum, permitting guests to freely take pleasure in its structure and centuries of historical past.
After which got here alongside 2020, and may we actually be stunned at what I’m about to say, as a result of when did something good occur in 2020?
Out of nowhere, the Turkish authorities introduced that the Hagia Sophia could be dropping its museum standing and returning to a mosque — with a hefty price ticket for guests and a flooring that was solely accessible to Muslims. The Byzantine-era paintings could be lined by curtains — you’ll be able to see these in my photograph above — and the marble flooring could be lined by carpet.
As of 2025, you’ll have to cough up €30 to go to the Hagia Sophia, and if you wish to skip the prolonged queue and entry a partially-open museum, tickets are available at an eye-watering €50!
So the query is now: is it price visiting in 2025?
For my journey accomplice, Dave, it was a no brainer: completely not. He’d already been to the Hagia Sophia, and refused to spend that amount of cash to have a worse expertise than the primary time. That’s completely comprehensible. However what for those who weren’t lucky sufficient to have visited Istanbul earlier than 2020?
I knew I wanted to pay to re-enter the Hagia Sophia, if solely in order that I might allow you to guys know if it’s an absolute waste of cash.
I’ll confess: I don’t assume it’s the best-value exercise in Istanbul; not by a protracted shot.
And I’ll additionally share that visiting now’s undoubtedly a far crappier expertise than it was.
However I nonetheless assume that for those who can justify the expense, it’s price paying for. In spite of everything: it’s the Hagia Sophia! It’s such a widely known, vital constructing and it’s nonetheless superb to see it with your individual eyes. It’s not as mind-blowing as earlier than, however it’s nonetheless very spectacular.
I like to recommend visiting simply earlier than sundown as a result of the queues are a lot shorter presently of the day! I made a decision to go to at 10 a.m. and the queues had been stretching again for a strong hundred metres; they had been so dangerous, I coughed up the €50 entrance payment to keep away from standing in line for an hour! Don’t make the identical mistake as I did.
That’s why I like to recommend a night go to. That means, it can save you some cash by paying simply €30 and nonetheless see the mosque with a touch of daylight passing in via the home windows.
Day Three in Istanbul: Let’s Head Over to the Asian Facet
Istanbul is the one metropolis on the planet that straddles two continents, so that you clearly can’t depart with out setting foot on the Asian facet.
We’ve acquired an early-ish begin right this moment, so I’d advocate grabbing breakfast in Sultanahmet. Now, this space is fairly well-known for its overpriced rooftop eating places that cater virtually completely to vacationers — and particularly at breakfast time. Essentially the most well-known is Seven Hills restaurant, which is thought for having probably the greatest views within the space.
However right here’s the excellent news: I discovered a little-known various with means decrease costs, welcoming employees, and views which can be virtually as beautiful. It’s positioned a couple of blocks again from the primary touristy spots, so most guests don’t trouble wandering down this manner. This morning, nevertheless, you’re going to do precisely that.
Search Out One of many Greatest Worth Breakfasts in Sultanahmet
Sure, we’re kicking off our day at Mesopotamian Terrace Restaurant, as a result of what higher solution to spend your last morning in Istanbul than with an iconic Sultanahmet view?
me by now: I’m at all times going to advocate a Turkish breakfast! And this spot delivers, with a incredible unfold and probably the greatest panoramas within the metropolis. From the rooftop terrace, you’ll be capable of sit and eat with the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and even the Asian facet of Istanbul inside your eyeline.
Their Turkish breakfast providing is nothing wanting epic, with three sorts of native cheeses, a recent bagel, crusty bread, a creamy yoghurt-cucumber dip, jams, cheese pastries, tahini, clotted cream, honey, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, a sausage omelette, halva, Turkish tea, black mulberry juice… phew! It’s sufficient to make you wish to crawl again into mattress for a morning nap.
There’s no relaxation for the over-stuffed, nevertheless, as a result of it’s time to go to Topkapi Palace. For those who can enter at 9 a.m., you’ll be capable of see many of the sights with none crowds.
Head Straight to Topkapi Palace
Subsequent up on the itinerary: a visit again in time to the period of Ottoman sultans, extravagant jewels, and a few critically dramatic palace gossip. Welcome to Topkapi Palace: the previous house of Ottoman rulers for practically 400 years.
For those who’ve ever questioned what life would possibly like behind the palace partitions, nicely, it concerned numerous wealth, thriller, and possibly some intense side-eye. This advanced is completely monumental, so don’t be stunned if you find yourself spending 4 hours exploring the whole factor.
The truth is, I don’t even know the place to start relating to describing the sheer variety of rooms, shows, and monuments you’ll be capable of see when you’re inside.
One of many highlights for me was the Harem, which had been the opulent personal quarters the place the sultan’s household and concubines lived. The Treasury is one other must-see, showcasing swords encrusted with gems, an 86-carat diamond, and different treasures that show the sultans actually knew the best way to store. There’s additionally a set of relics, together with — supposedly — Moses’ employees and Prophet Muhammad’s cloak. Whether or not you imagine of their authenticity or not, it’s an interesting take a look at how the Ottomans collected (or “acquired”) these artefacts.
After which, after all, there’s the view.
Topkapi Palace sits on a chief spot overlooking the Bosphorus, and the terrace provides probably the greatest panoramas within the metropolis. It’s the right place to finish your go to, standing the place sultans as soon as stood, gazing out over their empire.
The one criticism I’ve concerning the expertise is that the advanced was somewhat too giant to carry my curiosity. Dave and I ended up skipping over a few of the rooms after we’d spent 4 hours there, as a result of we had been completely palaced-out.
Take a Breather at Gulhane Park
Simply whenever you assume Istanbul is all magnificent mosques and busy bazaars, alongside comes Gülhane Park to remind you that, sure, this metropolis has a peaceable facet too. Situated proper subsequent to Topkapi Palace, this park was as soon as the personal gardens of the sultans. At present, it’s open to everybody, and for those who want a break from the crowds — which you most likely will do after spending time at Topkapi — that is the right spot to take a break.
For those who’re visiting in April, you’re in for an actual deal with. Right now of yr, the whole park explodes with tulips, because of Istanbul’s obsession with them. Enjoyable truth: tulips initially got here from Turkey, not the Netherlands!
One in all my favorite issues about Gülhane Park is the view. Head in the direction of Setüstü Tea Backyard, and also you’ll discover a hilltop cafe that’s overlooking the Bosphorus. That is the place you seize a Turkish tea, sit again, and take within the scene — ferries gliding throughout the water, seagulls wheeling overhead, and the distant hum of the town. It’s a kind of uncommon spots the place you get a second of calm in a spot that by no means actually slows down.
It’s additionally price holding an eye fixed out for a few of the historic bits scattered across the park, just like the Column of the Goths (a leftover from the Roman period) or the doorway to the outdated imperial stables. However actually? The actual magic of Gülhane is solely wandering, discovering a quiet bench, and watching Istanbul do its factor.
When you’re suitably refreshed, it’s time to make your means over to the Asian Facet of Istanbul, and
I Liked My Turkish Espresso Class on the Asian Facet
So if there’s one factor you’ll want to find out about Dave, it’s that he loves espresso. And so, when our journey to Istanbul final yr coincided together with his birthday, I knew I needed to reward him a coffee-themed expertise. Turkish espresso is without doubt one of the most beloved drinks on this nation, and it’s acquired such an interesting backstory.
We opted for the Turkish coffee-making class provided by Istanbul Workshops, who provide an entire vary of Turkish-inspired experiences for guests. I point out this as a result of I do know not all people is a espresso fan! If that’s the case, you may want to join their mosaic lamp-making workshop, perfume-making class, ceramic tile artwork session, or learn how to make traditional stained glass windows.
The critiques for all of their experiences are superb and provide phenomenal worth for cash. Lessons value round €15 and for that, we had a three-hour historical past and coffee-making class, discovered the best way to learn every others fortunes in our espresso grounds, free drinks and snacks, and had been every gifted a ceramic Turkish espresso mug and saucer.
The entire lessons are held throughout the similar constructing, so I used to be capable of take a peek on the different choices on provide. I believed the mosaic lamp-making, particularly, seemed like a lot enjoyable!
So, anyway. Dave loves his espresso, however I don’t actually prefer it that a lot. Neither of us are significantly keen on Turkish espresso, both, so I used to be curious to see if this was going to be a catastrophe for us each.
It was truly the precise reverse, and we each got here away with such a deep appreciation for Turkish espresso. As an added bonus, the 2 completely different variations we discovered to make had been so a lot better than those we’d been making an attempt within the native cafes. Our teacher was so pleasant and made all the historical past behind Turkish espresso super-interesting.
I’d undoubtedly advocate spending your morning studying extra about whichever facet of Turkish tradition intrigues you most — and particularly the espresso class, as a result of we beloved it a lot!
Discover Extra of the Asian Facet
The lessons happen in Üsküdar — a historic, much less touristy space on the Asian facet — so when you’ve completed up, I like to recommend taking an hour or so to soak all of it in. This a part of Istanbul has a completely completely different power to the hustle of Sultanahmet. Right here, it’s all concerning the conventional lifestyle, with Ottoman-era mosques, waterfront tea outlets, and a definite lack of tour teams.
It’s an actual old-school Istanbul vibe.
For those who’re up for somewhat sightseeing, take a look at Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, designed by legendary Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan. It’s a kind of under-the-radar mosques that someway nonetheless isn’t full of vacationers, so you’ll be able to truly take a quiet second to admire its magnificence. If mosques aren’t your factor, Üsküdar’s little backstreets are filled with native markets and bakeries the place you’ll be able to decide up a recent simit (the Turkish model of a bagel, however crispier and higher).
Then, for those who’ve nonetheless acquired daytime leftover — and sufficient power — and are eager to see extra of the Asian neighbourhoods, take a bus or an Uber over to Kadıköy.
In Kadıköy, you’ll discover limitless little streets to get misplaced in, filled with report shops, bookshops, and vibey boutiques. For those who’re within the temper for vigorous bars, avenue artwork bustling markets, and classy cafés, Kadıköy is the place to be. If you wish to do one thing significantly quirky, seize a espresso at Walter’s Espresso Roastery: a Breaking Unhealthy-themed café the place you’ll be able to don a yellow hazmat go well with earlier than you begin ingesting.
Lastly, head again to the waterfront. Watch the ferries come and go and absorb that attractive view of the European skyline.
Take the Ferry Again Throughout the Water
Beginning to get hungry? It’s time to take a scenic ferry journey again to Eminonu.
Not solely is that this one of the best ways to get throughout the Bosphorus, however it’s additionally an expertise in itself. Seize a seat on the open deck, order a steaming cup of Turkish tea from the onboard café (due to course the ferry has tea service), and settle in for essentially the most scenic commute of your life. You’ll glide previous historic palaces, minarets, and seagulls which have completely zero worry of people. Significantly, these birds will hover subsequent to your hand for those who’ve acquired simit — and sure, feeding them is mainly a convention.
Neglect taxis, overlook the metro — that is how you ought to be touring in Istanbul. And for those who time it proper with sundown? Pure magic.
Take a Stroll Round Binbirdiek Sarnici
Earlier than we wrap up our time in Istanbul, nevertheless, there’s one last exercise I wish to advocate visiting.
If, whenever you visited the Basilica Cistern, you discovered your self considering: “Wow, that was cool, however I want it had fewer vacationers and much more ambiance,” let me introduce you to Binbirdirek Sarnıcı — aka the Cistern of 1,001 Columns.
Now, does it even have 1,001 columns? Nope!
However with 212 towering marble pillars, it nonetheless feels such as you’ve stepped into some form of historical underground temple. Constructed within the 4th century — which makes it even older than the Basilica Cistern — this cistern is the second-largest within the metropolis. Lately, it’s extra of a moody, dimly lit occasion area, usually used for artwork exhibitions, performances, and — as a result of that is Istanbul — dramatic marriage ceremony photoshoots.
It feels means extra peaceable than the Basilica Cistern. You’re not shoulder-to-shoulder with tour teams, and the ambiance is eerier, virtually such as you’ve uncovered a secret a part of the town that not everybody is aware of about.
We went earlier than dinner, round half an hour earlier than it closes (at 5 p.m.) and had been the one folks within the advanced for the half-hour we had been strolling round!
Now, I’ll admit that it’s undoubtedly not as spectacular because the Basilica Cistern, and there’s no water there, which does take away somewhat of the joy, however it’s considerably cheaper and undoubtedly price seeing.
Seize a Fiery Dinner from Outdated Ottoman Cafe and Restaurant
On your last dinner in Istanbul, I like to recommend venturing over to Outdated Ottoman Cafe & Restaurant, which is positioned down a facet avenue close to Hagia Sophia.
The very first thing you’ll discover? The employees listed here are so pleasant. I’m speaking next-level hospitality, the sort the place they chat with you such as you’re an outdated pal and would possibly even shock you with a free appetiser or dessert. It’s the kind of place the place you sit down planning to eat rapidly, after which instantly, two hours have handed, you’ve befriended your waiter, and also you’re critically contemplating ordering one other spherical of mezze.
And the meals? That is the place to come back to strive a Testi Kebab, aka the clay pot kebab. You’ve probably seen these being cracked open in eating places throughout the town already, and I couldn’t depart the town with out making an attempt it for myself.
They slow-cook the stew inside a sealed clay jar, which they then carry to your desk — aflame! — after which dramatically crack it open with a knife. Slightly efficiency together with your dinner? Sure, please. The lamb melts in your mouth, the flavours are wealthy and attractive, and it’s precisely the form of meal that makes you overlook you had been ever drained from strolling 30,000 steps.
Between the nice and cozy hospitality, the hearty meals, and the charmingly old-school ambiance, Outdated Ottoman Café & Restaurant is a kind of spots that makes you are feeling such as you’ve stumbled onto a hidden gem — besides, based mostly on the glowing critiques, the key’s undoubtedly out.
The place We Stayed in Istanbul
I at all times advocate that first-time guests to Istanbul keep within the Sultanahmet neighbourhood. It’s the place all the largest vacationer sights within the metropolis are, and there’s one thing so magical about waking as much as a panoramic view of the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque.
I’ve tried a number of overpriced, mediocre resorts on this metropolis, however there are happily a couple of gems to be discovered. This time round, Dave and I made a decision to remain in Tin Suites and beloved it; it’s now the place I ship all of my pals once they go to the town!
The rooms are spacious and fantastically designed, and the balcony overlooking the Hagia Sofia is unbelievable as a result of — sure, the placement can’t be overwhelmed. The employees are tremendous pleasant and the rooms are utterly silent, regardless of their central location. Right here’s a photograph of the view from our bed room window at evening:
The one factor I’d advocate is to skip the free lodge breakfast, as a result of — as you’ll have observed from the remainder of this text — there’s so many higher locations to eat!
And That’s Easy methods to Spend Three Days in Istanbul!
And so concludes my relatively prolonged three-day itinerary for Istanbul! I hope you’ve got an exquisite time on this metropolis and fall in love with it as arduous as I’ve.
-Lauren.
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